Offa-long the Dyke #5: Kington to Knighton

The last day of the hike. I wake up feeling a bit tired (nothing to do with the red wine, of course) and trip down the precipitous stairs to Adam’s excellent breakfast, eaten amid the trays and drawers and crates of coloured threads and yarns and dyes, next to the sewing machine. The electronic spinning wheel is somewhere in the corner.

We walk away from the ODP down into cloudy Kington because the Friday market is on. The market ladies organise to fill our water bottles from the corner bakery where for the first time we meet a lot of other hikers, probably because the sandwiches are home made and the coffee is actually good! 

Offa-long the Dyke #3: Pandy to Hay-on-Wye

Judy Moreland of Ty Clwdd turns out to be a major benfactress of hikers. By the time we leave her comfy B&B, she has organised a local taxi to take our bags to Hay, fed us an enormous breakfast, provided massive cheese and pickle and tuna mayonnaise sandwiches for lunch, and given us advice on a handy short cut to get to the top of Hatterall Ridge.

Offa-long the Dyke #4: Hay-on-Wye to Kington

We almost have to be dragged kicking and screaming back on to the ODP; we love Hay so much we don’t want to leave. From the fresh berries and yogurt at La Fosse, to turmeric-flavoured sheep’s milk ice cream at Shepherds, to trawling the Thursday market for second-hand scarves and fresh welsh cakes - how can we leave this behind?

Eventually, we peel off our reluctance and get back on our path because this sunny day is leading us across green hills and rolling valleys and fields once we have come out on to the open after following the high path above the Wye under the trees.

Offa-long the Dyke #2: Monmouth to Pandy

Up at 6 am and we work round each other well in the tiny twin room at the back of the Mayhill. There’s a lovely view out of the breakfast room window past Lidl and over the bridge into Monmouth’s old grey stones. The view from this table must make it the most popular because the seats are far more worn and saggy than any of the other five tables in the little room where we eat a massive hot breakfast and chat to the breakfast cook.

Offa-long the Dyke #1: getting there

“I reckon this is going to be the next big thing in multi-day hiking.”

“It’s a great way to see a part of the country we don’t know.”

“It will be pretty easy walking every day.”

“You’ll love it.”

This was the quadruple mantra I kept repeating to my sister before we hit the Offa’s Dyke Path (aka ODP) this August - while keeping my fingers crossed that it would all work out.

As my marriage unravelled, my limited remaining energy went on stitching together four days of hiking along the Marches of the Welsh/English border with my dear sister novice-hiker Caro. I planned how we would get in and out of the hike, our accommodation each night, getting our big bags from place to place while we walked, and where we would walk. I was also in charge of map reading and navigation - a big challenge for someone who struggles to find North/South, left/right (and even up/down on a bad day).

Coast to Coasting #5: Crossing over

Up. Down. Cross. Re-cross. 
That’s the thing about the Coast to Coast. Because you are walking across the country you cross different landscapes and rock types - limestone, millstone grit, red sandstone, pale sandstone; you cross boundaries and features - stiles, becks, roads, railway lines, national parks, moorland and bogs.

Topography

The views from valley to top, from top to top were breathtaking. When we hiked up Hartley Fell to reach Nine Standards Rigg we could feel that these mysterious stone structures truly marked the watershed of the spine of England. Our hearts and spirits lifted. 

Coast to Coasting #6: The wrap and what we learned

With the whole width of England behind me, my C2C adventure is over now. 
I learned a lot during the planning and execution - you might find some of these tips and hints helpful when you organise your first C2C or any other UK multi-day long distance walk.

Staying

You can use one of the many walking package companies such as Sherpavan who will book the whole trip for you including all your accommodation (as well as transporting your big bag, giving you track notes and looking after you). 

Coast to Coasting #4: the people you meet

“Excuse me, sorry to bother you, but can I ask what you are doing?”
Or,
“So tell me about what’s going on here, if you don’t mind?”
A (hopefully) polite enquiry has been my opening for several conversations along the Coast to Coast path.
One of the attractions of walking from one side of England to the other is you meet local interesting people. British reserve might normally drive me past, but I’m only going to be walking this way once, so I figure I might as well risk being nosy to satisfy my curiosity.
A few examples….

Coast to Coasting #3: Squirrel tales

Growing up in the 1950s in England often involved reading Squirrel Nutkin by Beatrix Potter and / or being taught how to cross the road by Tufty Fluffytail the road safety red squirrel. But in today’s England, red squirrels are an endangered species; they have all but been pushed out by the bigger, introduced grey squirrels except in a few  remote or island locations, mostly in Scotland or Wales. 
But you don’t have to go to a remote location to see English red squirrels. The National Trust looks after a reserve of ancient Scots pines running down to the beach at Formby, near Liverpool - one of the top 10 picnic sites in the UK - that is also home to a thriving colony of 400+ red squirrels who have dodged predation by local cats and grey squirrels.

Coast to Coasting #2: Gear failure - Boots (Again)

On top of Raven Crag - but watch those boots.

I have bad boot karma, no doubt about it.
My Zamberlans peeled their soles on the last day of the Northern Tongariro Circuit so I ditched them. My Scarpas peeled their soles on the last day of the Rakiura Track last year but I persisted, had them reglued (at great expense) in Brisbane, restitched (at very little expense) in Ladakh, and gave them away in Dharamsala because I just couldn’t trust them to last.
I bought a new pair of Mammut boots in January for this hike. Carefully broke them in till they were wonderfully comfortable. But then…

Coast to Coasting #1: Starting out

Let’s walk across England from west to east in one go, starting at St Bees Head and ending at Robin Hood’s Bay - the Coast to Coast hike.
Getting to the start of the Coast to Coast (C2C) was cheap and seamless thanks to Virgin Trains and North-West Rail, booked through Trainline. Cheap at under 11 pounds because being over 60 qualifies me for a Senior Railcard @ 30 pounds a year. Almost too seamless because catching the train from St Helens, I had 5-minute windows for changes at Wigan and Carlisle and almost missed the St Bees train.

Liverpool - Land of the Unexpected

First stop the North-West: land of dour Lowry streetscapes? Clogs, cobbles and serried pit worker houses? Nup. Unexpected statuary and social phenomena - yup.

Iron Men

On the coast at Sefton, the golden sand beach is home to the “Iron Men”; not surfers/sand sprinters but an installation by Anthony Gormley called Another Place comprising 100 naked identical iron figures (casts of his own body - a little narcissistic?) set along the beach and in the sea, gazing towards Ireland. They cry out for customisation with hats and pullovers but also exude a strange serenity.

Here I go again

A small part of the packing for 2 months in the UK - cat not included

Just about a year after the last packing photo, here I go again: 

• piling up stuff, wrangling gear lists; 

• trying to figure out likely weather; 

• working out how many combinations of clothing and layers can get me through an unseasonably warm UK summer into autumn, through hiking and socialising; 

• getting on and off public transport - so the bags have to be small (no lovely Indian porters and kind locals to take pity on an elderly tourist on this trip). 

Himalayas: the wrap

Remember this photo? What was useful? What should I not have
bothered with?

Six months after coming back from the Himalayas - time for a quick review of how that huge pile of packing worked over a long trip.

Most useful item?

I'd like to say it was the Vegemite. The tube lasted me the whole trip and when times were tough, a smear of brown salty yeast by-product on toast hit the spot. But I could have got by without it.

Without doubt, I couldn't have got by without the Exped inflatable extra-light mattress. I only spent one night in a tent - but right from the first night in a Lhasa hotel, through the whole of Ladakh, and into Dharamsala - the guest house mattresses are solid boards. The only way I (and my mate Glenys later on) got a decent night's sleep was to put the Exped on top of the mattress. 
My Kathmandu thermos mug gets an honourable mention.