1 wedding, 2 magpies and 3 cups of chai tea = a great day out

Mcleod Ganj suddenly turned on its best sparkling champagne winter on 1 December, the day after I bought a pair of post-mortem rubber gloves for a nun in long-term retreat.  A great time to go for a hike. 

Local Ghadi women in party clothes, Dharamkot

So Julia put aside her studies and translations and I shelve my editing and writing projects and we agreed to meet at the Himalayan Tea House at Dharamkot to walk up to Gallu Falls – likely to be full of water after the torrential rains of the past week.

Long-term blog readers will already know that the HTH serves one of the best aloo paranthas in Himachal Pradesh but I have already started the day with a bowl of Surinder’s banana porridge so I just sip excellent masala chai (#1) while I wait for Julia.

My McLeod #3: people and animals and places

Eating and meditating (and working) were my primary occupations in McLeod Ganj over the last 3 months, but for me the real richness of this crazy friendly big village were the people and animals and the special moments of beauty.

Favourite beggar

Meet Shara - always neatly turned out, politely chatty, and ready with a cheery greeting. Like all the beggars in McLeod, she is southern Hindi, not Tibetan; unlike many of the other beggars, she isn't disabled or old or disadvantaged. Her professional “I’m a beggar, it’s my job,” positive attitude ensured a daily donation of 10 Rs from me (and many others) and has enabled her to bring up two adult children to the point where her daughter starts nursing college this year.