My 2019 McLeod: what’s good for you?

Have a great day out at Peepal Farm: stray animal
rescue and vegan organic farm

In case you visit magical McLeod Ganj without first attending the planned 60-hour slide night at my place – here are my recommendations and tips for visiting McLeod culled from my time here in 2019.

Some old favourites have retained their rankings this year:

• RK Barbers’ Amid is still the best hair cutter in town in my opinion, with the added value of providing one the best chair massages ever. How did he know I had a sore back and strained lower arms that day?
• Mukti, still an eyebrow artist with his careful re-dying to threading. But he carries a grudge that I get my haircut somewhere else.
• Surinder and the team at Kailwood Guest House dispense the best fruit porridge and support for their guests with taxi bookings, travel advice (thanks for warning me off trying to get to Dalhousie in the snow) and IT repairs. Plus the valley view from the deck is still the best view in town.

Great day out

Visit Peepal Farm on one of their cow cuddling open days, or just drop in to visit this combined animal rescue shelter and organic farm. The owners and volunteers have developed a beautiful spot on used-to-be derelict land where they are nurse and either re-home or adopt dogs, cats and farm animals. Eat vegan snacks and buy some of their great produce. Watch out for posters around town or find them on Facebook. The farm is 13 km from Dharamsala, in Dhanotu Village.

The view from The Other Space cafe

Best coffee

It’s a tricky call, but since Common Ground on Tushita Road installed an espresso machine in 2018 and trained Coffee Boss as barista this is the best place to get your caffeine fix – especially if consumed alongside Pema’s inspired upgrade on Bhagsu Cake: her Toffee Crisp slice – or her toasted homemade bread (you have to bring your own Vegemite and avocado, see below).

The Other Space, next to Illiterati on Jogiwara Road, has nice coffee, and is worth visiting for the polished concrete décor (and HP’s most spoiled dachshund); communal meeting room/ shared work space; art displays, book launches; and the coffee served with a glass of water and a cookie, and the stunning view of the Daulhadaurs.

Joint award: Favourite hang-out and favourite host

Rabsel (top bloke) and Ginger (top dog)
hosting at Common Ground

Common Ground on Tushita Road is run by power couple Rabsel and Pema. Pema keeps a lower profile whipping up marvels in the kitchen with the boys; Rabsel – who used to run community agency Lha – has owned Common Ground for years and his gentle intelligence has made it the chilled, comfy, eclectic second office/sitting room/ reading pit/ sunset watching spot it is today. His sense of humour, compassion and wisdom are matched with wide interests and ability to have a good conversation on any topic. 

Rabsel's renowned sidekick is the McLeod institution arthriticky, fat, elderly lady dog Ginger who will do anything for a tummy rub including barging through closed glass doors. 

I recommend the Cantonese Fried Noodles, Taiwanese noodle soup, ubiquitous hot ginger/lemon/honey drink, and the spinach cheese omelette. Cathy DeLong goes for the Farmers Breakfast. Actually it's all good, but don’t keep your avocado in Rabsel’s fridge because it freezes.

Best pizza

Go to the chowk, walk to Nowrojee and Son, McLeod's ancient original shop (founded c 1860) on the west side and turn left down one of the greasiest, smelliest alleys you’ve ever seen, full of parked motorbikes. Pick your way over the uneven surface for 30 metres till you get to the door of Om Hotel and Café on the right. Down the slippery tiled stairs, you will find the best veg and non-veg pizzas in this town, and possibly other towns in HP too. Can’t beat their crust. The aubergine with extra mushroom is my favourite. 

Venerable Dhokun also rates their thukpa soup. Catherine DeLong recommends the deep fried momos.

If you are lucky, Mariko, Tibet's most well known trans woman will be there. Ex-novice monk, now model, video star and first Tibetan to appear in India's "Big Brother" she is a style icon and much respected and liked in town. Be impressed with how she owns the room.

Favourite shop

Bunnings (McLeod branch)

This year I fell in love with the tiny cupboard-sized hardware shop in the double road market. Christened “Bunnings” because every time I went there for one thing I needed, I not only found that item, I came away with at least 6 other incredibly useful purchases. (This is where I found the re-usable rubber post-mortem gloves – see “1 wedding…”). 

It also sells stationery items, which I guess makes it OfficeWorks as well.

Favourite veg shop

I don’t know if this is actually the best veg shop because all the road side vendors sell photogenically beautiful seasonal fresh vegetables and fruit, but this Kashmiri-owned veg shop (the last one down Temple Road before you get to the gates of His Holiness’ temple gates, you know the one...) is the only greengrocer to regularly stock avocados (and the ubiquitous little local limes that are wonderful squeezed over your self-smashed avo on Common Ground toast).

Favourite cakes

Sangmo pipes Tashi Delek on my
farewell cake for LTWA

On one of the busiest parts of Jogiwara Road, just down from the Post Office and next to Carpe Diem Italian restaurant, up a tiny metal spiral stair, you will find Woeser Bakery (open 10-7), run by the charming, chatty supremely good baker Sangmo. Doesn't matter if your preference is vegan or with eggs, this woman can bake up a miracle. Her cardamom cake is an explosion of subtle flavour on the tongue.

Best adrenaline rush

I’m getting so inured to the terrible curves and dangerous driving in McLeod that only twice in taxi rides this year did I think: “We are all going to die” – in 2017 I thought this at least twice a day. My adrenaline rush this year came from a quick fun tandem paraglide ride off Indra Point. 

You can just turn up, the pilots know what they are doing, a selfie stick and a video of your ride is optional extra, and you can choose the quick 10 minute tourist trip or stay up all day if you want. At only 2000 rupees, it’s a great way to see the valley (if you keep your eyes open).

Favourite beggar

Arjan shares a morning chai with a mate.

My friend Shara is still here, and we caught up most days, but I want to tell you about Arjan – he has the best smile in town, is always in the same spot on Temple Road opposite Coffee Time cafe, is often in the company of friends, and deserving of a chat and a contribution.

Favourite op shop

Actually the only official op shop in town, but worth a visit. The Recycled Clothing store on Jogiwara Road is run on the same lines as the Australian Swop Clothing Exchange: bring good items and get discounts on what’s on the shelf in the saleable section, or feel free to ferret in the piled-up chaos of the garage sale shop next door. 

Don’t buy any new clothes in town till you have checked out what is on offer here. If Munchul likes you, he will put stuff aside and even take you out for coffee.

Favourite freebie

Come down to the Tibetan Government-in-exile complex and put aside an hour to visit the the Tibetan-style Library building housing the beautiful little museum (50 rupees entry) full of works of art smuggled out from Tibet by refugees over the last 60 years. 

Take the time to visit the tiny Nechung Monastery in the same complex. Walk round the outside of the temple clockwise, take off your shoes at the bottom of the temple steps and walk up to the sun-drenched plaza housing the home of the State oracle of Tibet who is consulted by the Dalai Lama and Kashag in times of national crisis; still very active today and speaking through a medium who is traditionally always a monk from the Nechung Monastery. 

Turn your back on the butter lamp shrine and step over the lintel of the tiny temple onto the dark honey, time-worn timber floor; check out the wall paintings and statuary, especially in the Protector chapel. 

If the monk is sitting in a low cushion behind a desk, ask quietly for a packet of Nechung seeds - bright orange-dyed grains that have been blessed by the Oracle itself. Just a couple will keep you safe while travelling and prevent injury in car accidents. (You are going to need that protection on every taxi ride.)

The butter lamp shrine at the Nechung Monastery