Gear failure No. 1: lungs

Kailash: worth the effort

I had thought I might write a post or two about the inevitable gear failures that always happen. (I’ve already bitched on endlessly about how my boot soles peel at inopportune moments.)

I hadn’t anticipated that the first bit of equipment to fail would be my respiratory system. 

Yup, sadly Altitude Sickness scotched my intentions to hike the kora around Mount Kailash. I got as far as the first valley but, as elderly fat Hindu ladies in bedroom slippers sprinted past me, my oxygen levels plummeted, I started to cough, my legs stopped working and we all turned round and came back.

So I got to see the world’s holiest mountain. I just didn't get to see every side of it. 

I was able to walk along the shore at Lake Manosarovar, the holy lake, and enjoy watching Hindu pilgrims bathe away their impurities. I made dedications and read the Heart Sutra as requested by friends and dharma buddies. I watched the sunset and the sunrise over the lake ripples. 

I climbed to Padmasambhava’s Chiu Monastery beside the lake - founded with help from local sparrows in 800 AD. That will have to be enough.

Holy Lake Manosavorar

I spent the next 4 days blinking in bright light, coughing, feeling wobbly, coughing, gasping, coughing a bit more. My main exercise for a week was to cough continually.

The street-gear-wearing, 14 year old doctor in Saga Hospital measured my oxygen level at 42,  recommended overnight oxygen and confirmed I don’t have pulmonary oedema.

The excellent Dr Durga in CIWEC Travel Hospital back here in Kathmandu confirmed no damage to my lungs or heart, said I am fine to travel on to Leh, in Ladakh, and then Dharamsala. And added, “watch out for Indians.” 

I intend to take his advice.

Chiu Monastery