Last seen in Lhasa

Canggu nunnery: nuns prepare mantras

We got a couple of extra days in Lhasa because we didn't complete the Kailash kora - I think we put the time to good use. 

We wind through the back alleys to Ramoche Temple, a tantric university where lamas come to learn to lead chanting, to sing internal complex tonal harmonies and manage the rituals of their own monasteries. 

The country monasteries might be full of protector dogs, but in this mid city monastery courtyard, large ginger cats keep an eye on things. In the meditation hall there are the usual serried rows of maroon covered benches for monks to engage in the rituals, and multi coloured gorgeous brocade-covered pillars soar up to skylights in the ceiling. And a lively white kitten (white fur on all that maroon wool cloth - I hope someone has a Velcro clothes brush) bounds from bench to bench, pounces on tourist groups’ ankles and down the back of altar offering bowls, before whipping straight up the brocade pillars with every claw pulling loops in the silk.

At Canggu Nunnery, it’s a special day so not only are the nuns working, they are chanting and praying as they work (multi-tasking stereotypes pop up unbidden……). 

Reading sutras aloud

Older nuns sing full time in the cosy meditation hall at the top of steps above pots of dahlias and lilies. Sutra reading nuns flip the loose pages of their scriptures while dozens of copper offering bowls of water are sloshed into buckets.

Washing up at the Ani-la cafe

Working nuns chant and pray as they trim, roll, wax and box printed mantras to pack into prayer wheels and statues. 

Round the corner in Canggu Nunnery cafe, we join the local primary school students and their families as we stuff ourselves on nun-made yak McNuggets, rice, thukpa and big fat momo dumplings. Down in the courtyard, two cheery nuns manage to stay ahead of the washing up at the pump.

Heading back to Kathmandu tomorrow so huge thanks Amber, Mike, Ron and Simon from Team Kailash and to Three Jewels Adventures for making it all happen.

Ani-la momos: the best type

Thanks Tibet, it’s been thought-provoking. Next stop: Ladakh.