My McLeod #1: staying and eating

Porridge and fresh fruit and chai (Vegemite and iPad
Supplied by the author)

After nearly three months living and working in this magical town, I would like to share my favourite places, things and people. If you are lucky enough to come and spend time here too, you might find this information handy. (No personal liability is accepted for these recommendations - we bloggers love power without responsibility.)

Favourite guesthouse team

It has got to be Surinder, Sanjay, Akshay, and The Boy who run Kailwood up between Tushita and Tipa roads. Cheerily turning out omelettes and noodle soup, advising on the best way to humanely get rid of monkeys, playing backyard cricket or washing floors - these guys are the tops. They also get my award for favourite breakfast for their bowl of porridge/fresh fruit and favourite chai for Surinder’s morning mug of magic with fresh spices, and also guesthouse view for the horizon views from the south-facing terrace above the whistling kites.

Favourite aloo parantha

(That’s a yummy Indian flatbread with grated potato cooked on a griddle) From the Himalayan tea stall next to the entrance of Tushita Meditation Centre, without a doubt this 50 rupee plate of comfort food is the best parantha in town and worth sweating up Tushita Road and braving the monkeys and the taxis on the narrow concrete road.

Favourite latte 

Peace Cafe on Bhagsu Road - basic decor but popular with monks (always a good sign) and a great view. Best of all, barista Sonam Khonchok bakes his own cakes and bread everyday. Cafe Budan on Jogiwara Road has an interesting playlist and good croissants but too many loudmouth western Dharma dudes.

Great view, great coffee at Peace Cafe

An honourable mention for the Shangri-La cafe on the divided bit of Jogiwara: run by the monks of the Gyudmed Monastery, the barista monk turns out a wickedly strong flat white. 

Favourite momo soup

Such a difficult choice! Aromas Tibetan Cafe was a clear favourite for the last 3 months, but I just discovered the monk-made momo soup at the Shangri-La. With the added advantage that Shangri has wifi and is cosy warm on a cold McLeod night, that clinches the pick for the monks. Well done Venerables!

Spinach and cheese momo soup - thanks to the monks

Favourite hangout, favourite vegan, favourite owner

Bodhi Greens in Dharamkot ever time! You know how vegans have that annoying moral superiority? Everyone would clamour to be vegan if they could eat at my mate Varun’s chill out spot every day. Taste the rich and hedonistic ‘buttery coffee’ and Oreo slice and you will never again think vegan food is spartan or puritanical.