My McLeod #2: mind and body solutions

Thosamling Nunnery

McLeod Ganj and the Dharamsala area is a magnet for world travellers who want to find themselves, find a way out of samsara, find a place to be more than just a tourist, find a decent haircut after months on the road. I should know because that was my reason for spending three months here (and the haircut became a necessity after that amount of time).

These are my favourite places to find what your mind and body need. I would have included somewhere to get a pedicure but it got so cold up here that I couldn't countenance taking my socks off for more than 30 seconds unless I was a) in a hot shower b) in a warm bed with a hot water bottle tucked under my feet.

Favourite retreat place

Thosamling Nunnery and Buddhist Women’s Centre is just 20 minutes down the hill from Dharamsala by cab but, located at the end of a footpath in the middle of rice fields and fruit orchards in the village of Sidhpur, it feels blessedly remote from the hideousness of everyday, helped by the lushness of its Queensland style tropical vegetation.

You can come for a weekend, or stay a month, or longer. The vegetarian food is based on the eggs, fresh fruit and vegetables the western nuns cultivate and the volunteer cook produces home made bread and addictive home-made peanut butter.

Favourite Buddhist teaching 

Bet you thought I’d say HH the Dalai Lama’s October teachings at the main temple? The hoop-la and excitement and star power around HHDL’s public teachings are unforgettable. But for me, Tushita Meditation Centre’s regular daily meditation sessions, weekend courses and residential retreats were my backbone when trying to improve my mental wellbeing in McLeod. The teachings are top class and the wooded surroundings are tranquil (except for the resident monkeys, and the strangely noisy Vipassana centre next door). The peanut butter is just as addictive as Thosamling’s.

Favourite place to volunteer

Obviously I am a huge fan of the Library of Tibetan Works and Archives, but if you only have a couple of weeks and are happy to have a go at writing, teaching, conversation classes, childcare, or office work, Lha is an organised, central and friendly place to volunteer and feel you have made a difference. They also throw a great volunteer lunch every couple of weeks in the season.

Favourite eyebrow bar

Love my new brows

Mukti and his boys on Bhagsu Road run the flashest metrosexual unisex hair and beauty salon in town and have a resident puppy. Their 100 rupee eyebrow dye includes expert brow threading. Mukti also reckons he is the top hair cutter in town. But he is wrong: he is good, but he isn't as good as ….

Favourite hair cutter

… Amit who cuts hair in the tiny centrally located scungey RK men’s barber on the divided road between Temple and Jogiwara. He cuts with care, precision and a sharp razor, plus (and I never thought I would say this) a great head massage - all for 200 rupees. Give the man a big tip, won’t you?

 RK looks daggy but Amit is the best!