Great days in Grasmere

At Thorney How: ready for those hills

There are so many dreadful ways of spending the May Bank Holiday in this tourist mecca village in the Lake District: trying to get a car park within 4 km of the town; standing in a long long line at the Famous Gingerbread Shop; standing in another line to visit Wordsworth’s Dove Cottage only to find that it is being renovated within an inch of its life in time for the 2020 bicentary and all you can see are container offices, scaffolding and hoardings; being charged $8 for a dreadful English coffee....

But you can avoid all of these traps. This is how I had a great time in Grasmere.

Staying

Thorney How independent hostel was my favourite place to stay on the Coast to Coast in 2018: the caring staff and comfort (and well-stocked bar) of a BnB; the friendliness and fellow-feeling of a hostel. People chat in the kitchen, talk to the cats (rotund Rey, gorgeous Ptolemy), play the piano. So I came back for a happy week in a group room shared at times with my sister, clever Caro, and editor friends Fiona and then Yani.

Recommended: A half pint of Eskdale ale in the garden in late afternoon sun overlooking the sheep paddock after a satisfying leg stretch over to Langdale and back by Stickle Tarn. Throwing screwed paper balls for Remy to ignore. The warmth of the rooms inside foot-thick 17th century stone walls.

Walking

Didn’t need to get in the car to go anywhere all week - the enticing network of paths spreads from the village in every direction to draw you to the fells, tarns and tops. Every day another hike, a new (ancient) footpath, a valley stroll along side the lakes among the pop-colours of rhododendrons, a steep breathtaking hill to a breathtaking - and sometimes heartbreakingly beautiful - expansive view. Stride along the ridges of High Raise and Sergeant Mann. Walk 25km or 2km, it is worth the trip.

Recommended: Alcock Tarn, Easedale Tarn, Helm Crag, Great Castle How, the lakeside walk along Grasmere and Rydal Water. The speed and delayed noise of the 4 RAF fighter planes that roar through the valley at tree height around 2.45 most afternoons (be on Helm Crag and watch them scream past below you.)

Eating and drinking

The best place for coffee and hiking pastries and sandwiches without doubt is Lucia’s. The Lake District’s tiniest shop fits two staff, a coffee machine and a world of talent in making great pastry into sausage rolls, tarts and a pies. And flapjack. And don’t worry that there isn’t room to sit - customers can borrow a cushion from the bucket at the door so that you can sit on the walls round the village green.

Buses and boats

The double decker bus service - especially the 599 open top with commentary - is a good way to travel around the Grasmere area, right down to Bowness via Windermere station. The regular 555 takes you all the way to Keswick and Kendal.  Forget about wasting time trying to find a car park; sit on the top deck and get a great view around the fells and valleys; enjoy an ale in yet another old pub and don’t worry about driving back. (Don’t take it just to Rydal though - the ticket costs $8!)

Taking a ferry down or across Windermere or a rowing boat on Grasmere introduces you to the shore line of the Lakes and hidden corners and water birds. My sister-in-law, lovely Lesley, rows most days on Lake Windermere at Fell Foot - she tells me she can’t believe how lucky she is to be out on the water in every weather and every season.