How many ways do I like the Cinqueterre?

Off to have a swim at Manarola

This 30 km stretch of north-west Italian coast - a world-heritage listed tourist magnet - is notorious for piazzas packed to the gills with global day trippers, overpriced beer and heaving masses of Chinese tourists. But.....

It is also a glorious piece of territory, great food, tough hiking on quiet rural trails, fabulous views of ancient but still active vine and olive terraces - yes I like the Cinqueterre in so many ways. 

Five Towns

Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, Riomaggiore - each one has a special charm. Coloured houses with washing line lashes cascade down to green glass-clear sea harbours trimmed a labyrinth of cobbles. The villages are linked by narrow swooping stone and dirt paths. These paths were the only way - apart from the sea - to connect the ancient settlements before the 1870 railway line was driven through tunnels and perilous sea edge embankments between Genoa and La Spezia.

Monterosso - northernmost “Terre”, split into old and new towns with a massive headland tipped with intact WW1 pillbox gun emplacements that you can pop in to visit as you stroll pas. From here you can see the vista of all five towns right down the coast. Visit the poignant cliff top cemetery with intriguing haunting inscriptions about violence in war and reinterments.

Vernazza - folded into the narrow narrow cleft in cliffs with tiny streets winding up into the hills. This tiny town was devastated by floods a few years ago but rebuilt as original. 

Corniglia - perched on top of a headland with views along the coast, but we found it a big schlep to and from the train station which is down on the sea level. (Hint: take the bus shuttle that’s free with your hiking card - see below)

Manarola - enclosed in its valley like Vernazza, yet even more scenic, and even more full of tourists. Go early in the day or evening when the hordes have gone. Swim off the rocks of the slipway in clear lilting seawater.

Riomaggiore - southern most town. I was so drunk on scenic towns when we got there I can’t quite remember what I like most about it.

Five days

Arriving in the afternoon of Monday, we got the priorities sorted: a raid on the shop for teabags and cheese; then a sunset boat trip along the coastline with Rici the fisherman. The magic hour evening light along the cliffs, comfy armchairs and relaxing beer, Ric’s lowkey chat about his homeland - the best way to be introduced to the Cinqueterre.

The next day we started late for the walk along the path to Vernazza so we hit a clog of tourists also walking the only bit of the famous coast path that is currently open, but everyone walked slowly, respectful of each other and of the sense of peace and history below the olive trees and among the vine terraces. No litter, no raised voices. The path is narrow, rocky, steep both ways - not over made-over for tourist convenience. Once at Vernazza we left the tourists behind and climbed alone to the lonely peaceful sanctuary of Madonna Di Reggio among the cedars and lit candles for family and friends. Then on to Corniglia to catch the train home after a bigger day than we originally planned but feeling pleased with ourselves.

Day three, train to Riomaggiore, planning on hiking along the quick skip to Manarola and onto Corniglia. Ha! The half kilometre walk to Manarola is straight up the headland mountain and straight down again - 300 m distance and a sweaty thigh-cramping vertiginous 90 minutes. Dropped the idea of Corniglia and drank coffee and swam and people watched before taking the increasingly wonderful train home.

A big day next day of inadvisable shopping, church hopping, lunching and a final hike to Punta Mesco above Monterosso for a view down the coast. 

And the last day was a comfy train to Milan then a frenzied afternoon and night of intense compressed tourist tick boxing to Leonardo’s finest, the cathedral, the galleria and La Scala - but that is another story.

Number One Place

One train line makes the tripping and hiking and travelling so easy and pleasant. Quick, easy, frequent. 

One hiking ticket (from the official information office) that you need to walk the one low-level famous foot path by the sea - get one because it also gets you free rides on the tourist shuttle buses and - most importantly - free access to the train station toilets! In a country where loo charges are common, that is a big thing.

Cinqueterre - one great place to visit.